In theory, I've got to find out how to get from Trang to Kuantong Pier, then bag a space on a longtail to Ko Mook, then find my way across the island to Had Farang bungalows on the West side. But this is Thailand, so cough up £7, and it's minibus, boat and moped taxi, straight to your bungalow door - easy life... Next to me on the minibus was another brit, Cheryl, fresh from two overnight trains and oh so looking forward to seeing a shower. Slick transfer onto the longtail at the pier, then settle down for the short journey along the mangrove swamps and out into the sea.
Dumped on the wrong side of the island, we waded ashore to discover mopeds had been sent over from our destination. I had some concerns for the back axle of mine - me plus my bag does not equal featherweight, but made it OK.
Had Faranag bungalows were exactly what they advertised - cheap and cheerful 500 baht options a hundred metres from the beach. Sleeping within sight of the high tide mark would mean spending 1500 baht more per night, not gonna happen - the big bucks are staying in reserve for super crap value Phi Phi. So, on Ko Mook a tenner a night gets you a bamboo-walled fan bungalow with electricity for 12 hours a day, cold water shower and a 6am alarm call from the macaques banging on the tin roof.
Ko Mook is your typical Andaman Island - an uneasy combination of bikini clad tourists, muslim chao ley locals, and Thai businessmen trying to develop the hell out of the place. The interior is still used for working rubber plantations and every tree has cuts and collection cups. After an average dinner at Mook Rubbertree Restaurant (too close to Charlie Beach resort, so they assumed that bland and non-spicy was what I wanted), it was down to Mookies for a swift few Singhas to end the day. Mookies is Lonely Planet famous for its cold beer and Australian owner, Brian. If you ever find yourself in one of the upmarket resorts on Ko Mook, go to the exit, ask for a moped taxi and get to Mookies - you'll have a fine night.