
My favourites from an enjoyable week underwater on Koh Tao – relaxing shallow stuff, a pristine wreck, then deep and exciting out at the offshore pinnacles.

Leaving friendly Darocotan behind, the reward for another choppy hour or so of big-boat whitetop surfing is Takling Island – anonymous speck on the map, but vivid and memorable in reality.

Our island-hopping first day with Tao had taken us less than 10km from El Nido, so time now to get some nautical miles underneath Aurora’s keel.

My trip packing list starts like this: Passport, credit card, toothbrush, headtorches – how anyone can travel without (at least) one is a mystery. Granted, they’re dull and geeky, But I’ve been in more Asian toilets which don’t have lightbulbs than do and your hands are, well, “occupied” in such situations, so humour me.

Wreck dive completed, that was it – back to port, group photo, buy the t-shirt, say goodbye and onto the 12 hour bus journey to Bangkok – aircon arctic cold but have had worse trips.

So, for those who don’t know about diving liveaboards (e.g. me, yesterday) the routine is very simple – up at 6am, then eat, dive, eat, dive, eat, dive, eat, dive, eat and finally sleep…